After a few more fun filled nights in Chiang Mai and a stop at the Diablo’s Heavenly Burritos, our visas were on the outs again, so we made a dash to Laos. Julia was planning to go with us, but then the morning we were supposed to leave she wanted to check her mail right quick before we left and she suddenly decided to stay. So we said our goodbyes and headed off. We got to the train station, but the next train wasn’t for 3 and a half more hours, so we went Wi-Fi hunting. We finally boarded the bus and were just about to leave, when guess who climbs aboard. I guess Julia changed her mind again, so she decided to join us on our 8 hour journey to the border at Chiang Kong. The bus was really crowded, but Thai people are courteous and don’t put their recline their seats, so it wasn’t an uncomfortable ride. In the back of the bus where Julia and I were sitting, and really cute Thai girl got on, and in asian style, she bowed and took her seat, put her belongings as out of the way as possible, folded her arms in her lap and sat their peacefully for the entire ride. She wanted to sit with her friends but she was too polite to ask anyone to move, and I didn’t really want to because the back had way more leg room. 4 hours into our journey, Julia attempts a conversation with this girl, who doesn’t speak but a few words of english. However she does get across that she’s a Japanese teacher, which I was really excited about as the chances I get to speak Japanese are rare, and the chances I get to communicate with Thai who don’t speak english are almost null. So we spent most of the ride chatting in some sort of broken pidgeon Japanese. The bus ride flew by after that, we finally got to her stop, which came far too fast, and we exchanged emails, took a few pictures and she left. We finally arrived at the border town, found a place to sleep and called it for the night. The 3 of us shared a 4 bed room, but Julias bed was right by the window which was apparently right above where the upstairs toilet empties out onto the ground. Everytiime anyone upstairs would use the toilet, you could hear the water making it’s way and eventually splash out under the window. Then the owner of the hotel, coinicidentally also our tuk tuk driver who happened to bring us there, wakes up at 1am and turns on the lobby television, at an absurd volume. So Julia wraps herself in a sheet and runs out to tell him to turn it town. It’s pretty sad when you have to tell the staff to keep the noise down. Then about 3am, a group roles into the hotel and sits outside our window laughing and screaming and carrying on for an hour or so. Needless to say, nobody is getting any shut eye this evening and about this time I’m realizing I’m starting to get a fever, and I’m feeling pretty ass, and not looking forward to the next 2-3 days of travelling. So finally morning comes, and we head to the border, take a ferry across the Mekong, get our visas, buy our long boat tickets and then play the waiting came. It was 10:30, the boat was supposed to leave at 11. Things were looking up, we had decent seats, it wasn’t too full, and with only a half hour left, how many people could possibly show up. I should have known, that longboats follow the same rules as most forms of SE asian transportation, nothing leaves until it’s full, really full. So people keep trickling in for the next hour and eventually the boat is bursting at the seams and they decide to open a second boat. So we quickly hop of ours and hop onto the other boat, getting even more premium seating than before. But because now they have to fill 2 boats before they can leave, the wait takes even longer. Another hour later, both boats are really really packed, and about to head out, when this semi-obese Canadian starts screaming at the staff that the boat is too full. The just ignore him as he clearly hasn’t learned that yelling is not something that is effective here. So he screams at the top of his voice “What are you doing? Your going to kill us all!!!”, a bit mellow dramatic, but he turned out to be a little more right than I originally thought. So we were off, and Aaron and I managed to get benches to ourselves, while everone else on the boat had to share seats. Perhaps our lack of showering was starting to pay off? The people in front of us were an interesting group. A hodge podge of diverse personalities, forced into a tight space too spend the next 8 hours together. The star of the group was certainly a women named Joy. Her name couldn’t be any more appropriate and I’ve never seen anyone enjoy life as much as she does. She’s a 72 year old hippie, who spent the last 20 years living in student housing at the University of Michigan and spends most of her days travelling the world. She feels life is too short to be sad, so she just smiles and laughs at everything. In the morning she wakes up laughing, only because she hears the rain. 3 months ago, she’d spent a couple months in Nepal during a communist revolution where people were terrified to go outside because guys with clubs were clubbing anyone who was conducting any kind of business during the 3 day long communist strikes. She’s got stories for ages, and she’s sharp as can be, and she’s headed to Vang Viene for a second time to go tubing down a river, that winds through caves and is littered with bars on each side you can litterly float to, to grab a bucket of whatever conncotion you choose and head down to the next bar. 3 years ago she spent 2 days on this river, drinking and swimming with a group of deaf mutes, I can’t even imagine… Along our 6 hour stretch down the Mekong, the people in the back of the boat are hot and want to sit on the roof of the boat. This is an activity that is a famous part of the Mekong longboat rides, but has recently been stopped due to safety issues. So they go to the top, and when the staff see them, they make them get down. Then in true western/chinese fashion, they approach the staff, bribe him with $3 a person and they are allowed to sit on the roof. Everyone’s a winner right? We’ll it turns out those safety rules are there for a reason as an hour later, the boat hits a wave, and goes completely on it’s side, the back fills with water and suddenly a series of splashes can be heard as the people on the roof are launched into Mekong with out any notice. Most of which were drunk and sound asleep at the time, a terrible way to wake up. So panic ensues on the boat, the fat Canadian couple decides it’s their moment to shine and want to take charge of the rescue operation. So they start telling everyone what to do, frustrated because everyone is obeying them. Obvioulsy others have their own ideas, and the boat is really alive at this moment. I’m not too concerned as the river is really shallow and slow moving and even with the weakest of swimming skills, a person could easily get to shore, or probably just find a place to stand up. So our boat has 5 or so chiefs yelling at the crowd about what to do, most of which is simply just to sit down. Within a few minutes most of the people are on shore, and 3 that are floating down the river are nabbed by another long boat in the vicinity, all is well, but the boat is a bit uneasy for the rest of the ride. Then as the people get back on the boat, they make what fraternaties have dubbed “the walk of shame” as they walk through the boat soaking wet and all the passengers silently and not so silently judging them. The next few hours, most conversations seem to be a semi heated debate whether the boat tipped due to overloading or the people sitting on the roof, or just bad steering. Obviously we this delays us pretty heavily and we move on to a small town of the river and spend the night. As we get off the boat, I hear the female part of the Canadian duo, go to the captain and in the the top of her voice she screams “Do you know what FUCK means?..... I told you the boat had too many fucking people and you didn’t listen!!!!” Having learned nothing about communicating with Laos people, she walked away frustrated. This tiny town, was built by the government and a mid stop to extract a few extra dollars from long boat tourists. As soon as we found a room, the rain started to fall, and as soon as the rain started to fall, then power went out on the whole village. So we just sat their in the dark. The kitchen was still open downstairs, so we had a candlelight dinner with some of our long boat friends and headed of to bed at 8:30. I was glad to be in bed, I’d been feeling feverish all day and really looked forward to a solid night of sleep. Which was easy considering there wasn’t any light in any direction anywhere, not a sound, just pure silent darkness. The next morning, we hopped back on the boat for an 8 hour adventure down the river, to Luang Prabang, which was uneventful. The boat was a bit uneasy as every small wave caused a minor panic as people could be heard discussing their escape plans if the boat was to tip again. The scenery down the Mekong is absolutely astounding, the mountains, the beaches, the wild animals (elephants, buffalo, pigs, dogs), the local villagers swimming/bathing in the river and the real sense of untouched Jungle.